So, you want to go to India?
"Calcutta (Kolkata) is not for everyone.
You want your city clean and green, stick to Delhi.
You want your city rich and impersonal, go to Bombay.
You want them hi-tech and full of draught beer, Bangalore's your place.
But if you want a city with soul, come to Calcutta."
-Vir Sanghvi
These past two days have been a bit of a blur. At JFK airport, I was eager to hop on the plane and start my adventure, but no research could fully prepared me for a city like this.
"What has it been like?"
The Flight
Flying with Air India exceeded all my expectations. They pride themselves on having the more leg room than any other airline, and the meals that were served were better than most
things I ate in high school.
We took a different route than I expected. Going north we headed up to Canada, over Greenland, and into Iceland. Then, we passed over Norway and Sweden, and got pretty close to Helsinki in Finland before we passed through Russia. The map on the flight made it look as if we would be closet to Moscow, but to my disappointment we were still pretty far. We flew into Kazakhstan, to Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan before entering Northern India into Delhi.
Arriving in Kolkata
After a 14 hour flight, a two hour layover, and another two and a half hour flight, I finally arrived in Kolkata. The first thing I learned is Kolkata is like any city back home. Move fast, get out the way, and if you let them, people will hustle you.
Upon my arrival, I got in line to pay for a pre-paid taxi to get to my guest house. Everyone was tired and impatient. By the time I was next up, a man behind me started to push me forward with his money already in hand.
"Sir, please do not push me", I said as patiently as I could.
When I walked up to the counter, the same man was already speaking to the desk attendant ready to purchase a cab. Oh no he did not straight up ignore that I am in front of him.
"Sir! I'm next in line. You have to wait."
Moral of the story: bust out your Philly/New York street smarts, and don't worry about if the other person understands you or not.
History Note: You say Calcutta; I say Kolkata
(This one is for Madison Hagar)
Calcutta, as it would come to be called, began as the capital of the British administration in India in 1772, but the British had been present in Bengal (India's most eastern region) long before this - starting in the 1600's. Trade in cloth, silk, lac, indigo, rice, nut, and areca nut originally attracted to the Portuguese and British to Bengal, and Calcutta became the first city of British India. The British-Indian rule ended in 1947, after being influenced by British rule for nearly 200 years. Only in 2001, did the city officially change it's name to Kolkata. It is believed that the name Kolkata sounds like Kalikata - one of the three villages that were present in what is now modern-day Kolkata, before the arrival of the British.
Fast and Furious: Indian Drift
Like any other city, there are Uber drivers in India. Unlike Uber drivers in the U.S., Uber in India is a taxi chain verses independent drivers. Had I known I could have Ubered to my house, I would have spared myself the headache and kept my phone service activated for another day.
After finding a taxi and giving the driver directions to the best of my ability, we were off! I want to preface that I'm sure India has traffic laws, but I suppose no one follows them. Lanes are suggestive, the street is a sidewalk, the horn is a turning signal, and the only thing cab drivers stop for are red lights. At this point I started praying, because I was sure we were going to hit someone. The best thing to do is not watch, and go for the ride. My driver didn't speak English and didn't know the area where I would be staying well. Luckily, he was able to stop and ask for directions a couple of times, and we eventually found Kalighat - the town in which I'm staying.
The City of Joy?
Kolkata has many nicknames - City of Palaces, the Cultural Capital of India, the Gateway of Eastern India, Heaven of the Aged. The nickname that struck me the most was the City of Joy.
I recognize I am a foreigner with little knowledge of Kolkata history and Bengali culture, but "joy" would not be the first word I would associate Kolkata with. In India there are only upper and lower classes, and the caste system is very real. An overwhelming amount of adults and children sleep on the sidewalks at night, many with just what they have on their backs. The streets are littered with trash, making the thought of living on the street that much more heart-wrenching. While I've experienced things in Kolkata that can bring joy, it's hard to remain joyous when there is so much need around you.
(Side note: Waste management and recycling are not huge facets of Indian culture as in America. It is common to collect your trash and then throw it onto the street. Better water and sanitation have been huge initiatives for the Indian Ministry of Health, and combating behavioral-health attitudes, such as littering, is on the agenda.)
I Must Have Two Heads
Keeping in mind that Kolkata isn't exactly every tourist's first destination in India, Kolkata remains quite remote despite being India's second largest geographical city. My second day in Kolkata, I mustered up enough courage to walk down the street by myself and explore the town. I recognized earlier that there were very few, if any, others that looked like me, but I didn't expect the reaction I received while on my morning stroll.
Everyone. Stared. At. Me. Even when I looked back at them, they still stared. I experienced something similar in Peru; even though I was Latina, I was a different kind of Latina most people from Cusco didn't typically see. Unlike Cusco, in India I have no common ground with the people like I had with others in Spanish-speaking countries. My dad said I was going to get looked at, and I wished I had believed him. It can be a bit overwhelming at times, but I know it's not out of malice or ill-intention. I think everyone is curious about me, especially my hair.
Is it time to eat yet?
(I know you're laughing Sensei and Mrs. Leza)
Kolkata is food central! Many restaurants offer both northern and southern Indian cuisine, as well as, traditional Bengali dishes. Can you say yum! Like any foodie would, I took pictures of everything I've eaten for your enjoyment.
(To Mrs. Laurie, that the food in India is waaay better than anything we could have ever imagined; please come to India! )
Restaurant: Banana Leaf
Dish: Masala Rava Dosa - a soft pancake-like crape stuffed with potato and accompanied with dipping sauces (tomato, coconut, and curry)
Restaurant: Blue Sky
Dish: Butter Chicken Delhi Style, Dal Palak, Jeera Rice, and a King Fisher beer - dal is a split pea or lentil spiced stew; jeera rice is rice and cumin seeds
Restaurant: Tamarind
Dish: Andhra Veinchina Mamsam with Tamarind Rice - tender pieces of lam cooked in an onion and tomato based thick gravy with a spiced rice.
I knew this place was bougie when they served the food on my plate. The drink is called lassi, a yogurt based drink, which helped with the spice of the mamsam and rice. After I was finished my meal, I was provided lime water for washing my hands (you only eat wit your right hand in India), and what I believe to be a folded banana leaf. The leaf isn't eaten but chewed. It is stuffed with a mint-flavored edible that I believe is used to help with digestion.
(To Desiree, this lamb was the most succulent piece of lamb I have ever had. I have never used the word succulent in my life before this moment.)
Restaurant:
Dish: Chicken Remshi Kabab with Butter Naan - naan is a flat bread
With bare love,
Andreana
.